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Answer: because class rule 20 says, "Inspection ports... may be installed on the deck or in the cockpit to provide access to the hull cavity..."Now, question. Why the hell nobody put inspection port on the transom???
I hope you didn’t pay money for the hull. Always do a mast step test before buying. If it leaks then pass. There are too many decent hulls out there. Unless it’s free and you enjoy projects.Pickup a 2xxxx series hull. 20lbs overweighted. Mast step drinks a cup of scotch in matter of seconds. No inspection port installed.
Ordered an 8" port online, will power up the jigsaw once in. What do I expect from opening up the hull after 45 years?
I need to re-read the rules again.... thanks bud.Answer: because class rule 20 says, "Inspection ports... may be installed on the deck or in the cockpit to provide access to the hull cavity..."
Counterquestion: what sense would it make?
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paid couple hundred bucks, only able to do a knocking test all around, dry deck and hull is that all I know.I hope you didn’t pay money for the hull. Always do a mast step test before buying. If it leaks then pass. There are too many decent hulls out there. Unless it’s free and you enjoy projects.
There is a moist meter you can get for hull, they do work...Costed me few hundred bucks maybe 15 years ago to make me sleep better. But after playing with it for some time, I say a few bucks hammer + some white hair can do the job. Kinda like grandma way to picking watermelon, slight tap everywhere and wet core will sound different. You will need to know where studs, bulkhead and all.How could you tell the hull was dry? I just bought an '82 Alcort and god knows what's in there. Without an inspection port I certainly don't.
My squeeze for next season. There you go...This thread really needs some photos!
It has probably worn through the bottom of the mast step as well, I usually cut a fibreglass disk (sanded smooth) out of the bit of deck removed for the hatch hole, pour in about 25 ml of epoxy resin and drop in in.
The epoxy levels out the bottom of the mast step plus fills any cracks and the fibreglass disk acts as a new floor. Just make sure the hull is level by using a spirit level across the top of the mast step and that the fibreglass disk is a loose fit i.e. it does not get stuck halfway down.
I usually add about 3 layers of fibreglass tape wrapped around the base of the mast step inside the hull as well, preferably glued with epoxy resin.
Steve
There may be a mixup of inner and outer diameters here. The maximum allowed size is 153 mm (6 in) inner diameter. The port in front of the mast in the above pictures doesn't look even that big. I am also thinking that an oversized port probably wouldn't fit in the cockpit.The beginning of this thread it mentioned adding an 8" port in the cockpit. I haven't taken any measurements but will that really fit there with out any issues? Is that better than a 6"?
I bought 8" at the beginning and it will fit but look too faking big for just patching the mast step. I ended up getting a 5" one installed. Ports are not flexing the same as the rest of deck and don't think there are rules on what kinda port you installed. Pushing the agenda from an evil mind, you can pick a softer port installed in area that can flex you boat more for light weights, or beef up the hull with tougher ones. Anyway, take a look at this, anything is possible.Question from a noob while on this thread. The beginning of this thread it mentioned adding an 8" port in the cockpit. I haven't taken any measurements but will that really fit there with out any issues? Is that better than a 6"?
That is what you call the "Quarter Berth"!Anyway, take a look at this, anything is possible.
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/8-cAAOSwh61fdS7s/$_59.JPG