Gooseneck rivets pulled out!

xkeller

xkeller

New Member
Your opinion please.
I would like to say I was out sailing in 60knot winds and my gooseneck ripped right out while I was hiking standing on the gunwhales while text messaging my mate from my cellphone at the same time.
But that didnt happen. It was more like 20 knots and it was already loose. When I derigged the rivets came out!
When I rerivet should I move up 10mm(and redrill) or should I flip it upside down and mount it on the opposite end on the opposite side(I read something about that somewhere?)
Your opinion would be much appreciated. :confused:
 
Re: Gosseneck rivets pulled out!

Don't move it up/dn 10mm (You don't want to add more holes to the spar)

Thru bolt the center holes, and if the upper and lower holes still hold rivets (ie the holes are not too enlarged), re-rivet those, otherwise thru bolt all 6 holes.

While you have to bolts and string out, drill out one set of the rivets on the vang attachment and thru bolt that as well, save yourself some grief later in life
 
Re: Gosseneck rivets pulled out!

49208 said:
Don't move it up/dn 10mm (You don't want to add more holes to the spar)

Thru bolt the center holes, and if the upper and lower holes still hold rivets (ie the holes are not too enlarged), re-rivet those, otherwise thru bolt all 6 holes.

While you have to bolts and string out, drill out one set of the rivets on the vang attachment and thru bolt that as well, save yourself some grief later in life
Click to expand...

Whayt sort of bolts should I use?
 
#10 Stainless Steel 1.5" or 2" long
Flat head or pan head
Use a regular nut, do NOT use a locking nut
 
I would suggest 3/4" or 1" pan head or round head - longer seems too long to me. Also, use a lock-washer (split type) under the nut to keep it tight.
 
49208 said:
#10 Stainless Steel 1.5" or 2" long
Flat head or pan head
Use a regular nut, do NOT use a locking nut
Click to expand...

Why not a locking nut? I thought I have seen instructions elsewhere (and I've done this in the past. . .) where you use vice grips on the end of the bolt to hold it while you tighten the locknut. Then you hacksaw off the excess bolt and file it smooth and it's probably never coming off.

-Steve
 
As you said, it's never coming off. If you ever need to replace the part, it is very difficult to remove a locknot off of a cut bolt.

However, you could put a locknut on the inside of the mast. Attach a long stick/pipe to a wrench, place the nut in the wrench (hold in place with tape), push wrench/pipe up mast, line up with screw hole, tighten screw. This is really not a difficult as it sounds.
 
Scott Bosso said:
As you said, it's never coming off. If you ever need to replace the part, it is very difficult to remove a locknot off of a cut bolt.

However, you could put a locknut on the inside of the mast. Attach a long stick/pipe to a wrench, place the nut in the wrench (hold in place with tape), push wrench/pipe up mast, line up with screw hole, tighten screw. This is really not a difficult as it sounds.
Click to expand...

Ok, that makes sense. I never tried with the nut on the inside as it seemed like too much work. But I guess if you pulled the bottom plug out and came up that way it wouldn't be too hard.

With the goosenecks they make now you shouldn't need to replace it if you throughbolt it but older ones were made of two flat plates riveted together and they would tear apart if they get old and corroded enough (and torqued in a high speed capsize).

Whenever I did this in the past (I used to be at a non-profit sailing club and we had a fair amount of old gear that we had to keep going. . .) I would always put electrical tape on the back of the gooseneck before I would bolt it on to help slow the galvanic corrosion.

-Steve
#179426
 
The e-tape is a good idea - there is also a chemical paste (I forget what it is called) you can smear on to prevent corrosion of dissimilar metals. Same principle.
 
Scott Bosso said:
... there is also a chemical paste (I forget what it is called)...
Click to expand...

"Duralac - Anticorosive Jointing Compound" [or alternative: "Le Tonkinois - Vernis Anticorosion"]
:)
 
I think similar to Scott's suggestion, when I flipped my lower spar section and thru-bolted the gooseneck, I used a rubbery spray that you buy in the electrical department at Lowe's (or your other favorite home improvment store). It is like the rubber dip that some folks use to avoid whipping the ends of lines, but in a spray can. It tacks up in a few minutes, so many layers are easy. I also sprayed the bolt heads,washers, etc. although actually dipping these might have been better...not so thick that you can't get the nut tight though..I figure every little bit helps. I was able to use a long stick (plastic garden stake) to reach the holes. I measured on the outside and made marks on the stick so I knew when I had stuck the stick to the proper depth and stuck the screw thru the hole. Still a whole afternoon job, but worth it.
 
I would use locking nuts, and have done so. If you need to get them off (I do not know of any reasons: you wont them not to come off) you will need to use new bolts anyway, so do that with a hacksaw as well.
The big advantage is that locking nuts will not come off!
G
 
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