installing racing cleats on boom

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by Carey Seven, Aug 30, 2017.

  1. wjejr

    wjejr Member

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    The stringers are inside the boat and minimize hull flex. It's highly doubtful that anyone is ever going to race a 1971 hull seriously, and that modification/fix really put some life back into the boat. If you want/need more information, let me know, and I will open a separate thread.

    The velcro you see is the peel and stick kind, and I use it to mount a small compasses on either side of the boat. There are actually two pieces fore and aft on either side, so depending on different conditions, I will use one or the other. The compasses were left over from a different boat, so I decided to put them back to work on the Sunfish.

    You will also notice the anti-skid tape on the deck. I found that after cleaning the boat the side deck was just too slippery, and so I added two strips on either side and that solved the problem. It was a bear to get the arcs just right, but if I do say so, I think they look pretty good now.
     
  2. mixmkr

    mixmkr Active Member

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    L&VW....they have bath tub, peel and stick, daisy flowers, you might prefer over the side deck strips!!!!!
    :)

    ( if you have a 60's boat) !!!!
    :)
     
  3. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    I've had both, and the racing sail definitely has a resting "blouse affect" at the foot. Perhaps the Intensity can be "coaxed" into an acceptable shape by selective ties, rather than using the factory's supplied clips exclusively. (Tighter in the middle of the foot).

    With three Sunfish, I'm sure to try longitudinals out on one of them. ;)

    Why not use readily-available fiberglass stringers?
     
  4. wjejr

    wjejr Member

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    Why not use readily-available fiberglass stringers?[/QUOTE]

    Hi LVW,

    I think the answer to your question is twofold in that it never occurred to me to buy something preformed, and that I already had the materials I needed to create what I wanted.

    I created the stringers by first cutting foam foundations on my table saw and then epoxying them then midway between the foam blocks and the keel. I think the foam foundations were about 1" x 1" by 30" or 36", I would have to look. I then used carbon fiber tape over that to form the stringers. The tape was maybe 4" or so, so the carbon fiber extends on either side of the foundation by quite a bit and forms a nice strong shape.

    I will take pictures tomorrow and post in separate thread.
     
  5. Carey Seven

    Carey Seven New Member

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    thank you so much
     
  6. Carey Seven

    Carey Seven New Member

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    got it thank you! however my deck cleat is pulling up and out even after rescrewing with #10 deck screws and 5200. I might need to look at the block underneath.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 5, 2017
  7. Sailflow

    Sailflow Member

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    Carey,

    Take one screw out of the deck cleat and loosen the other and rotate. Put some epoxy (fiberglass) in the hole and when dry, redrill and put the cleat back in place and tighten. Then repeat for the other screw.
     
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  8. Carey Seven

    Carey Seven New Member

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    yes I just purchased a used racing sail North sails
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 5, 2017
  9. Carey Seven

    Carey Seven New Member

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    Thank you everyone for all the responses. I have a N/S racing sail and an Intensity practice sail. I will only use cleats for downhaul and outhaul. I am just getting used to this forum and was having trouble responding...but I think I have it figured out now.
     
  10. Carey Seven

    Carey Seven New Member

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    Sorry for all the multiple responses.I kept getting error messages leaving me thinking my posts were not posting.
     
  11. Dickhogg

    Dickhogg New Member

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    If your deck cleat is a bit dodgy I would consider putting a halyard cleat on the boom as Tag does here:

    upgrades for a Minifish
     
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  12. tag

    tag my2fish

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    I would add the mast cleat no matter what. it's a much more direct connection structurally, and takes almost the entire halyard tension off the fiberglass deck.
     
  13. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    Very good idea, but I've found placing a cam cleat next to the cockpit eases hoisting—with no unsteady kneeling on the deck needed. The tension at the cam cleat (and the factory fairlead) is "in shear", and there's no evidence of damage from tension. Except for the necessary effort in releasing the halyard, a cheaper clam cleat would work just as easily.
     
  14. wjejr

    wjejr Member

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    Hi lvw,

    I use a mast cleat for the reasons tag mentions, but I also like it because I can use the loose end of the halyard as a boom vang. With the halyard tied to the mast, I can have the vang as loose or as tight as I want without worrying about halyard tension. Do you use a boom can't with your arrangement, and if so can you tell us how it works?

    Thanks.
     
  15. Wavedancer

    Wavedancer Upside down? Staff Member

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    The way LAVW rigs his halyard may be optimal for him, but is unusual...
     
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  16. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    Not unusual in the Phantom, from which I got the idea.

    I'd like to add a proper vang block and line, leading the line through the Sunfish deck cleat to a cam cleat near the cockpit. (To join the halyard cam cleat that is already in place).
     

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