Leaks

J

johnkent

Member
A couple questions regarding leaks
1) I have a pre/72 sunfish which I sailed for the first time yesterday. After sailing I had the boat out of the water up on an inclined boat launch. I noticed a steady drip coming from the bottom screw that holds the rudder mount. I'm assuming if water is coming out of this hole, this could be the entering point as well. Does this screw go into a mounted nut? I'd like to back it out and add silicone as I put it back in, rather than just add around it. What's the best way to protect this point?

2) My self-bailing cockpit is frozen, the cockpit will hold a gallon of water forever. But I was wondering about the bottom portion, is it a potential leaking point? If we forgo a self-bailing cockpit and go w/something low-tech (cut milk jug) Can this bottom portion be removed and glassed over? Or do most replace the bailer w/a more modern one. I would think this bailing system would have some kind of tube that goes through the boat and not into, unless the tube or tube joint fails. It was a mild sailing day so no water washing on top, never healed over to take water in on the sides. It's been on the launch for weeks, w/no drips.

I read in FAQ about the air test, which I will try.

Thanks for your time.
 
johnkent said:
I noticed a steady drip coming from the bottom screw that holds the rudder mount. I'm assuming if water is coming out of this hole, this could be the entering point as well. Does this screw go into a mounted nut? I'd like to back it out and add silicone as I put it back in, rather than just add around it. What's the best way to protect this point?
Click to expand...
The screw is anchored in a wood backing block.

attachment.php

The hole may be getting stripped or the block could be rotting. Pull the screw and probe the wood with an ice pick or eq. If it's soft a new block or a metal plate is needed. If the wood is solid, fill the hole with epoxy and re-drill it. Put a little marine caulk on the screw when you re-set it.

Yes, test the rest of your hull by performing a Leak Test
http://www.sunfishforum.com/content.php?pg=airtest

You may also need to dry things out.
http://kb.sunfishforum.com/images/Dried_Sunfish.pdf



johnkent said:
I would think this bailing system would have some kind of tube that goes through the boat and not into, unless the tube or tube joint fails.
Click to expand...
The bailer is a straight through passage, no tube. There's only two layers of fiberglass shell there, the cockpit bottom and the hull..., about 1/2" if that.

When a metal bailer corrodes and no longer functions it's usually removed. Replacement with the newer design is one option. It fits right in.

Frozen Bailer Removal ... How To tips

http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthre...ghlight=bailer

http://www.windline.net/BailerR.htm
 
Wayne, thanks very much for the info. I went ahead and added an inspection port back by the rudder assembly, so perhaps I can now replace the block of wood. kent
 
It was not too damp inside, I thought it was going to be worse. There are some mushy spots. I will tell you the boat weights more than 130lbs. I'm not a great judge of weight but if I had to guess, I'd put it around 175. But now w/an inspection port forward and aft, I can get some air running through there. I will also take the advice of "drying a hull out" which I found on this WONDERFUL site.

kent
http://www.kenteanes.com
 
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