Removing metal drain assembly.

LQT420

LQT420

Member
Does anyone know how to remove the metal drain assembly? Mine is all worn and corroded. I'm trying to prep an old hull for new gelcoat or Awlgrip (haven't decided yet) in the meantime I'm trying to do as much prepwork as possible. I want to replace it with the new plastic drain plug. Thanks for your help.

- Leon
 
The "old" method used to be to tape the hull around the fitting and hacksaw off the housing. A much better "new" method is to use a Dremel tool or other small hand grinder and from the inside of the cockpit grind two notches in the retaining nut so seperates into two pieces and it comes free.
 
Yeah, well not everyone has a dremel tool, including myself, and I'm a shop teacher. Why not just set the bottom side of the bailer against something solid and wack the retaining nut with a cold chisel?
 
Al,
I also am a shop teacher and was planning on using my Sawzall to remove the bailer from my old sunfish until I purchased the replacement. Old one was too far gone and was far to heavy to consider repairing. But I have the old one and will now take the saw to it and see what happens.
Craig
 
FIberglass doesn't have much resistance to "wacking" compared to the nut. I have seen hulls cracked trying that method of bailer removal.
And I will repeat make sure you protect the hull when sawing off the bailer from the outside. Again fiberglass soen't take well to saw teeth and it's very easy to do a number on the hull before the bailer comes off.
PS: A cheapo "dremel type" tool can be had for under $20 at places like Harbor Freight and Northern Tool.
 
Thanks for all your replies guys, but I was asking about the hull drain on the deck to the right of the splashrail. Do you think the methods above would work for it as well?
 
Drill. Start small and work up. Regarding the bailer. I have an old hull I have already cut into three pieces to dispose of. Good one to practice on. My new boat has the plastic bailer.

Craig
 
Yes, drill in increasing diameters, trying hard to stay on center. You shouldn't have any problems, it's brass.
 
Ask any Corvette owner if you can just do one wack on his car.....LOL All it takes is the edge of that chisel in contact with the glass to cause a mess. Not to mention all that energy gets transfered through the to the glass. We've had several folks chisel the nuts off bailers over the years. Best result was "see that didn't crack it much"
 
..... I agree with Al , anyone who is used to handling tools can easily chisel off the soft brass nut , then gently remove the old metal bailer. It literally takes seconds , no slipping , no fuss.
If you're not used to handling tools , then i don't recommend you go anywhere near it with either a chisel or a dremel tool or anything else ! ...... get someone else to do it for you & like i said , the nut is so soft , it literally takes seconds to remove.

Len

PS .... As for a Corvette , the best thing to do with these is to simply drive it to your nearest Lotus showroom , and trade it in for a real sports car !
 
Since we're going off track anyway, take a look at the iden number on the motors in the Lotus's. You'll be surpriised at who makes them.
 
Having been lucky enough to spend some time on their test track , I'm not surprised at all Mike ...... Toyota make the worlds most reliable engines & have done so for years ..... Just a bit faster than my Minifish in gale force winds !
 
Well now I have try both methods. A whack with the chisle and swipe with the saw. Since it is a junk hull it will not matter what happens.

Craig
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top