mixmkr
Well-Known Member
I wanted to repeat that. I think you're overthinking and let your noggin guide your gut feeling.Use good judgement.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
I wanted to repeat that. I think you're overthinking and let your noggin guide your gut feeling.Use good judgement.
Grading on a curve or just a random sampling of exiting pressure testers??I think you already passed an adequate leak test.
Also found that star spangled sail on ebay that I wanted ordering it today as well. .... Things are moving forward.
I've used West G-flex toughened epoxy with various West fillers with good results. I've not tried West Thickened g-flex with fillers. Advantage of g-flex is the squeeze bottles don't cost too much and are very easy to use.EVERCOAT Formula 27 Filler | West Marine
For filler. Skip the Bondo, without a doubt. If you're more experienced, West Systems with their selection of fillers is best for filling and then fairing. Expensive.
Times 2!Good job!
First, I agree with Wavedancer - fix all the leaks, not just the ones below the waterline. The deck leak should be an easy fix. The rivet is not the problem - the joint between the deck and hull is broken. Drill out enough pop rivets (without going thru the bottom of the trim!!) so you can pull the trim away from the lip of the deck/hull joint. If it is not completely obvious where the leak is, do another air test. But probably you will need to use a cutting disk on a dremel tool to open the crack between the hull and deck up wider. You can also work in a cut off hacksaw blade to do the same. You are trying to clean out the crack and enlarge it a bit so there is room for epoxy in there.Do you guys think this is multiple leaks, or one big leak? Or could it be that replacing the rivet fixes this problem? A trim leak was actually the problem I was dreading the most, for I found very little info out there to fix it when I did all my initial research.
Well, if this is someone's first foray into fiberglass work, it may be best to keep fiberglass work to the minimum required. Just a thought.ya know...maybe mentioned earlier...but if you're going to completely paint your hull...which it looks like it's crying out for ;-D .... consider some "surgery" to allow access to all your hardware, daggerboard trunk if needed...etc Then you can do proper repairs and put in killer backing plates for your deck hardware and ditch the cheezy wood blocks. While you're fiberglassing...a couple extra holes won't matter really and you're going to paint the whole thing anyway.....right?
That's what I do!Do you guys think I can just bypass those two repairs, sponge up the water in the hull after each sail for a season or two?
That's what I do!
Whitecap's boat has already dried out pretty well—once—and Texas winters are cold and dry. As recommended here a few years ago, a "natural sponge" makes sponging out the innards easier. (And I agree). If you capsize, first rescue your natural sponge!That's certainly one approach that I would seriously consider but for the following:
Currently, the hull is nice and dry inside. Some of the water that will leak into the hull during a sail will be absorbed into the foam, depending on how long you will be sailing and how fast you get to sponge out the innards afterwards. Decisions, decisions...
PS: Charles Howard put it well; like him, I would rather sail than spend (considerable) time making my toy pretty.
Not exactly. Modern battens are a bit like an Oreo cookie. Instead of a sugary white center, they have a "core" of wood, foam, or a honeycomb material. While balsa wood is preferred for economy and light weight, you can use tongue depressors or even old Popsicle sticks as cores. In my old, full-battened, catamaran sail, I must have 100-feet of old, but salvageable, battens!LAVWs,
Are you saying that instead of using battens, I could put down a piece of wax paper, or plastic sheet on my boat, lay down some glass and resin, in strips, let it dry, then remove it from the wax paper or plastic sheet. Now we have essentially made our own "batten" strips to use on the repair.
Just an FYI that West Epoxy and West Marine are completely separate firms. The staff at West Marine are typically motorboaters who don't know much about stuff beyond gas cans and water pumps.LVWs & Mix,
Thanks guys for the great information.
I think I will go to West Marine and see talk with some of the reps there to get answers to some questions (after spending some time onntheir product website).
I think I also will be using slow cure stuff.
Just an FYI that West Epoxy and West Marine are completely separate firms. The staff at West Marine are typically motorboaters who don't know much about stuff beyond gas cans and water pumps.
I'd go for the slow cure too. You are not in a race to finish this and I think you'll appreciate the extra time.
Good luck!
Yes, The West Marines I have been in sell a nice assortment of West epoxies. Just a coincidence they are both named West.Oh snap! Can one buy West Systems at West Marine? If not , where does one go? Glad you told me - was headed there before work. Would hate to waste that time.
I'll look it up on line tonight,
Thanks Beldar
It's a little scary when you're trying to hold onto an increasingly HOT container!You guyz and yer slow cure...wadda 'fraid of a little smoke ?? :-D