L&VW
Well-Known Member
Regarding your previous repair:
• That repair's strength relies on about 1/8" of hull-thick epoxy on its edges (not real strong) and a 1" tape that gets thinned by sanding.
Stronger still, would be a 2" tape epoxied to the back edges, leaving a 1-inch "halo" all around. To conform the "halo" to the hull, tape polyethylene film, saran wrap, or a grocery bag—with the printed side out—to support the "halo" directly adjacent to the hole that was cut. Coat with resin, insert, and proceed as you did. Details here:
"Arthrosopic Surgery" on Sunfish | SailingForums.com
• Where I sail, large and cold waves (wakes) frequently wash over the bow.
While I intend to fix it eventually, one side of my splashboard doesn't meet the deck, and flexes upwards with the waves. When a wave washes over the bow, I just push down on the splashboard edge, and very little gets through.
Caulking, though it would add some strength, just adds something else to clean up later. Silicone caulk adds to difficulties with repairs and painting. Since the splashboard mostly sits in the sun, I think I'd try a water-soluble caulk with no silicone. Regardless, any roughness to the finish is hidden by the splashboard!
• Why is the drain plug circled?
• That's good news on the sealed daggerboard trunk...What a relief!
• That repair's strength relies on about 1/8" of hull-thick epoxy on its edges (not real strong) and a 1" tape that gets thinned by sanding.
Stronger still, would be a 2" tape epoxied to the back edges, leaving a 1-inch "halo" all around. To conform the "halo" to the hull, tape polyethylene film, saran wrap, or a grocery bag—with the printed side out—to support the "halo" directly adjacent to the hole that was cut. Coat with resin, insert, and proceed as you did. Details here:
"Arthrosopic Surgery" on Sunfish | SailingForums.com
• Where I sail, large and cold waves (wakes) frequently wash over the bow.
While I intend to fix it eventually, one side of my splashboard doesn't meet the deck, and flexes upwards with the waves. When a wave washes over the bow, I just push down on the splashboard edge, and very little gets through.
Caulking, though it would add some strength, just adds something else to clean up later. Silicone caulk adds to difficulties with repairs and painting. Since the splashboard mostly sits in the sun, I think I'd try a water-soluble caulk with no silicone. Regardless, any roughness to the finish is hidden by the splashboard!
• Why is the drain plug circled?
• That's good news on the sealed daggerboard trunk...What a relief!
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