Trailex SUT-200 trailer at home!

stollie

stollie

Active Member
Got my hands on a nice used one today. Not enough time to take some pics.

I'm planning a size upgrade on the 8" wheels to 12" to help reduce vibration chatter, which loosened some bolts to the point that a bunk almost dropped off. Close call!

Alan, I appreciate your assistance with my planned bunk upgrade so thanks in advance if you'll send me some templates, notes, etc..

Anybody else willing to share some specific tips for this trailer, much appreciated!
 
I have been thinking about upgrading to the 12" wheels too. That's a good idea and may make for better long distance travel.
 
Anything I should know about the suspension on the SUT-200, seeing that it doesn't have springs?
 
I have been using the same SUT-200 trailer for almost twenty years. Both short and long distance travel.
I don't see a need to change the four bunks; they are well placed to support the hull.

The rubber suspension is not ideal and Trailex now uses a single spring on its current version (SUT-220) of the Sunfish trailer. I haven't looked whether it's possible to upgrade.

With respect to my experience, it's obviously important to maintain the bearings regularly and to have good tires. No need IMHO to upgrade to bigger wheels although there's nothing wrong with that.
Trailer lights are always problematic; especially when they get wet while launching. Keep an eye on those and fix them as necessary.

What is also important is to inspect the supports (cradle holders) for the bunks. They may develop a crack and then break altogether (image attached). If that happens, the hull will drop down on the very sharp aluminum edge of the broken piece. I have had this happen twice now (over those twenty years). Perhaps I overtightened the strap that holds the hull to the trailer. I now inspect those supports before going off on a new adventure.

I have also had the axle bend; I was told (by Trailex) that I probably drove too fast on bumpy roads. Now I do slow down (a lot).
IMG_1358.jpg
 
My thanks to the administrator for correcting the title of this post!

Wavedancer, thanks a lot for this info and advice. I'll be sure to regularly inspect the bunk supports for signs of stress.

I'm considering using some 1-foot square 1" thick plywood that I have, and replace those skinny bunks to better spread the load.

Is there anything about the rubber suspension that I should know about?
 
I'm thinking that it may be a good idea to replace the supports (cradle holders) for the bunks, seeing that I don't know what they've been through. And to remember not over-tighten the straps.

I asked Carl at Trailex if it's possible to upgrade the suspension to the springs. He'll probably have an answer by tomorrow.
 
stollie said:
Is there anything about the rubber suspension that I should know about?
Click to expand...
I've got a very long aluminum enclosed car carrier that has a "totally" rubber suspension for each of its two axles (plus electric brakes). The rubber suspension has held up well, although I'll expect some hardening over time.

The softest ride I've seen in a Sunfish trailer had quarter-elliptical springs. (One skinny piece of metal—picture).

As for bumpy roads:
1) Check the tire for recommended tire pressure and reduce what you usually carry by 2-4 pounds. Over time, check for wear patterns, and go from there.
2) If there was to be a metal failure, it would be expected on the right side, where roadway erosion can "grab" a tire.
It's especially bad where I'm living now. :(
3) A bent axle shouldn't be a concern, provided the bend is up or down. Positive or negative camber is OK. (Again, check for a wear pattern on the tires).
4) Consider using Trex artificial lumber in rebuilding that rear support. Trex won't scratch your Sunfish, won't rot, cheaper than metal—plus it's "bendy".

Why does one of the two diagonal braces appear misaligned?
 
One other suggestion. Don't over tighten the stainless hex bolts in the aluminum beam channels as you can damage the aluminum channels (been there, done that...)

E-mail me your mailing address and I will e-mail you a paper template for the bunk curved shape. I ended up making the bunks out of white ash planned down to fit inside the lips of the aluminum brackets. I then bolted across the brackets and finished off the atrachment with stainless lag screws through the bottom of the brackets into the wood - no problems in almost a decade.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
[email protected]
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I've been concerned about getting this trailer rather than the SUT-220 but I get the impression from your responses that, with proper care and precautions mentioned, it can work out well, especially since I won't be doing any hundred-mile rides with it. VIN search says trailer is from 2011.

Btw, Trailex said the spring suspension upgrade kit is $688.00 plus shipping. I'll pass on that.
 
Slightly off topic, the central beam (tongue) on my (2003) trailer is a single piece. At some point in time, Trailex changed to two pieces that are bolted together. I suppose that had to do with shipping. What does yours look like?

I do hope that you will get many happy years out of your trailer. With good care, that should be possible.
Trailex recommends 15 psi for tire pressure; that's what I have used.

PS: I second Alan's point about the bolts that connect the cradle brackets to the tongue. I have had that issue as well and had to reposition the cradle holder.
 
Some pics of the trailer for knowledgeable eyes.

The back bunks had come loose in transit, so I do have them. No apparent stress indications as far as I can see, except for the bent bar that's forward of the right wheel. I'll take a hard look at the wiring to see if it should be replaced. It appears that something may be missing on the tailpiece, between the lights, but that may just be cosmetic.
 
Stollie,

Just hammer the starboard cross strut flat and re-attach, and the 'raw' looking end of the beam is how they come from the factory in Ohio. I would replace the factory issued tail/brake/directional lights with aftermarket LED lights from NAPA. It's about an hour of labor and $70+ or - parts. The original lights are the weak link of the Trailex trailers.

Alan Glos
 
I would replace the factory issued tail/brake/directional lights with aftermarket LED lights from NAPA.
Click to expand...

Will do, especially hearing that cops love trailers with bad lights.
 
PS: just another thought
When adjusting the bunks, make sure they don't interfere with the bailer.

Harbor Freight sells an LED light kit for less than $50 (in my area), but I don't know its reliability/quality.

I have bought lights from E-trailer
Led Trailer Lights | etrailer.com

They provide excellent service; a rarity these days...
 
We did not have a good experience with our rubber bumper trailex, it bounced all over the place, especially unloaded. Possibly because I had too much air in the tires, what was recommended on the sidewall, vs what Trailex recommends. I also had several bolts shear during assembly, because I did not use a torque wrench. That said, I did not think I was over-torquing them, and it was the first time that I had had that problem with multiple bolts from the same batch.

Whether you get 12 inch or 8 inch wheel and tire, pay a few more dollars and upgrade to a higher load rating like C or D. A tire that is run at 15 PSI will have a lot of sidewall flex, and sidewall flex = heat = tire failure. Probably not an issue at side street speeds. The higher load rated tires have strengthened sidewalls. And check your tire dates, they should be no older than 6 years, when microfissures develop in the tread lugs. Look for the WWYY (Week Year) code on either side of the tire. If there is no code, the tires are too old.

As Alan said, get that strut straightened out, and then check the axle/tongue angle to make sure it is 90 degrees perpendicular.

Don't seal up the tongue ends, you want water to drain, and I'd make sure the trailer is stored at a slight angle to ensure rain water runs out.

Here's how Alcort set up their trailers, might be some ideas for you there.

ALC-12 Sunfish trailer.jpg
 
Thanks guys.

Kent, you read my mind about the load rating options. I was under the (mis) impression that the higher rated tires were for carrying more weight than the SF, so it's good to know that it's a worthy upgrade, longevity-wise.

check the axle/tongue angle to make sure it is 90 degrees perpendicular
Click to expand...
Not sure what you mean with this; when I look at it, it'll probably make sense, hopefully.
 
I mean that the axle needs to be at a right angle to where it connects to the tongue. Check it with a carpenter square if you have one. If the axle is angled, which it may be from that bent strut, it will not track straight when towed and cause tire scrubbing.
 
Hi Stollie,

I have the 220 version, but my comments should/might apply to the 200 version as well.

The two cross pieces (fore and aft) are different lengths, but strangely the holes in the longer piece are not drilled at the ends. The result is that there is no difference in the lateral space between the bunks for the two cross pieces. This doesn't seem ideal IMHO. My thought is that:

  • For the aft bunks you want them under the aft cockpit bulkhead and extending to the chines. To do this I drilled additional holes outboard of the existing ones. I do worry a bit that the added torque will break the crosspiece, but so far I've had no problems in the six or so years I've owned this thing.
  • For the forward bunks, I tried to place them as close to in line with the mast step/tube as possible while and again out to the chines. The only drawback is that the space between the boat and the beam is now really small. To remedy this, I had planned to to raise the bunks 1/2 inch or so, but never got around to it. I have a piece of pool noodle zip tied at the boat's lowest point, but the boat doesn't seem to hit when the trailer flexes.
Some other things.
  • The drain hole in the axle was drilled into the side of the axle and not the bottom. I called Trailex on this one, and they said in so many words that they didn't make the axle, and it wasn't their problem. The gentleman failed to grasp the notion that they did sell it to me and, therefore, it is their problem, but I digress. I fixed the problem by drilling another hole in the axle so that the water could drain.
  • I found the extended beam difficult to work with. At least for me. trying to balance the boat on the roller before it got to the aft bunks was a non-starter. I ended up cutting the beam down to not too far behind the aft bunks and then remounted the lights to the square frame which the 220 has. Looking at picture of the 200, I'm not sure where the lights could go except on the beam, and having them that far under the boat could be a vehicle violation of some sort, so you may just have to live with it.
  • I usually store the trailer in winter in the loft of my garage. To make it easier to handle, I bought a trailer plug kit and installed it between the two pieces of the beam (my trailer came that way). Each winter when I store the trailer, I just unbolt the two pieces and unplug the wires so that I have two more manageable parts.
Hope the above is helpful.

Good luck to you!
 
Weight is a factor for the rubber "spring" Trailex trailer. When I first towed it without a boat on it, it did bounce a lot even with the tires inflated at 15 psi. When I retrofitted with heavier, hardwood bunks (see photo) things improved and I was able to inflate the tires to 25 psi - much better for tire wear.
At one point I needed to tow the trailer unloaded for about 100 miles and I loaded the front bunk with an 80 lb. bag of water treatment salt. Much improved ride; less bouncing.

Another concern. I had a flat tire once on the trailer w/o boat and had a hell of a time getting the lug nuts off as the whole tire simply skidded on the pavement as I turned the lug wrench! I finally had to take a hammer and give the lug wrench a sharp hit to loosen the lug nuts. Now I carry my trusty
battery powered impact drill with a lug nut size socket when I travel - works fine.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 

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Would a 50 lb bag of sand in the cockpit help with the road bounce or is that likely to cause other problems?
 
No, don't carry heavy things in the boat, or any lightly built boat for that matter. Items inside a boat can damage the hull, and those same items add weight to a trailer, and overloading is what kills trailer axles.

Respect the axle weight rating. 220 pounds is the max load weight for the newer trailex, not sure if the rubber bushing model is rated the same. If the VIN tag is still on it that would have the data.
 
WOW, At the yacht club we had an early sunfish on one of those trailers. They were going to just take it for scrap. Honestly, the whole thing had surface rust, but it is structurally fine. Someone in the club did take the trailer so it did not get scrapped. The Sunfish, I used the aluminum trim to fix another fish and a sawall to the rest.

The hull was intact, but it weighed like 500 lbs it was full of water.
 
stollie said:
VIN 1XTXB1515B1000248
I could an education on deciphering these numbers.
Click to expand...

Apparently (!) the last six digits relate to the serial number
The first digit indicates that it was US made.
In second place (X) is the manufacturer
etc.
Dr Google is your friend:
What is a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)?| AutoCheck | AutoCheck.com | AutoCheck.com

Here is a link where one can enter a VIN
Free Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Decoder & Lookup (driving-tests.org)

Worked for my Trailex VIN
and when I entered your VIN, the response was 2011 Trailex
:)
 
Google's a friend for sure. I'd looked it up that it was from 2011. Trailer info not as interesting as vehicles I guess.

We can end this thread. My thanks to all.
 
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